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1993 Plymouth Acclaim Recalls, Problems & Maintenance

The 1993 Plymouth Acclaim has no open NHTSA recalls. Owners report 6 recurring issue clusters, led by “Cracked or broken rear trailing arm, axle and sway bar welds.” Plymouth ended in 2001, and everything with the badge is a Chrysler or Dodge underneath. The Voyager is a Caravan, the Neon is a Dodge Neon, the Laser is an Eagle Talon and a Mitsubishi Eclipse. Parts are shared and easy to find. Two things decide whether one of these lasts. First, the four-speed automatic in the minivans and Neons requires Chrysler ATF+4 fluid specifically. Generic Dexron will make it shudder and then fail, and this is the most common way these transmissions die. Second, several engines here use a rubber timing belt, including the 3.0 liter Mitsubishi V6 in the minivans, the 2.0 in the Neon, and the turbocharged four in the Laser. On the Laser's engine a snapped belt bends valves. If you cannot document the last belt, treat it as due.

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No open recalls on file. NHTSA lists no unrepaired safety recalls for this year, make and model. A recall can be issued at any time, and a specific car can still have one open — check yours by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.

Known issues & problems for this vehicle

What drivers and federal regulators have officially reported about the 1993 Plymouth Acclaim.

Reported to NHTSA

Cracked or broken rear trailing arm, axle and sway bar welds

SUSPENSION

12 NHTSA complaints · 1995-03 → 2001-03

“TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY TORQUE TUBE WELDS BROKE”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #526571
“THE SWAY BROKE AT THE WELDS WHICH CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO LOSS CONTROL. PLEASE DESCRIBE. TT”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #971639
“WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE THERE IS A RATTLING SOUND COMING FROM THE REAR WHEELS. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS CHECKED BY THE DEALERSHIP, THE TORSION BAR WAS FOUND TO BE UNWELDED. THE PROBLEM HAS NOT BEEN CORRECTED. PLEASE PROVIDE ANY FURTHER DETAILS. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #848899

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Automatic transmission failure to engage gear

POWER TRAIN

5 NHTSA complaints · 1995-02 → 2011-09

“CONSUMER HAD TO ADD TRANSMISSION OIL. THEN, CONSUMER TRIED TO SHIFT GEAR, BUT IT WOULD NOT WORK IN ANY GEAR , REVERSE WILL WORK. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #877772
“CONSUMER IS HAVING A PROBLEMS WITH THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, THE VEHICLE WILL NOT GO INTO GEAR IN REVERSE, IT WILL GO INTO REVERSE IN NEUTRAL AND ALSO WILL GO INTO DRIVE IN SECOND GEAR. CONSUMER HAS CONTACTED THE DEALER, DEALER REPAIRED THE PART. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #807997
“MY 93 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM 4 DOOR SEDAN WITH A 3 SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION THE TRANSMISSION AT STOPS STARTED TO SLIP CAR WOULDN'T EVEN MOVE FORWARD AT ALL THEN WHEN I PRESSED ON THE GAS PEDAL TO BRING UP THE ENGINE RPMS IT JUMP FORWARD AND I HERD A HIGH PITCH SQUEALING NOISE FROM”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10424409

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Driver air bag did not deploy in frontal collision

AIR BAGS

8 NHTSA complaints · 1995-02 → 2002-08

“VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN A DIRECT FRONTAL COLLISION. UPON IMPACT, AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY, RESULTING IN MINOR INJURIES. MECHANIC INFORMED OWNER THAT VEHICLE HAD NO AIRBAG SENSOR. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #874439
“DRIVER RAN INTO TREE HEAD-ON AT 30 TO 40MPH, AND DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY. DEALER INSISTED THAT IT WASN'T SUPPOSE TO DEPLOY. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #837544
“WHEN VEHICLE CRASHED INTO THE FRONT PASSENGER'S SIDE OF A 1999 BLAZER, TRAVELING AT 55 MPH, THERE WAS NO DEPLOYMENT OF DRIVER'S SIDE AIR BAG. ALSO, ENTIRE FRONT END OF THE ACCLAIM WAS SMASHED, AND THE ACCLAIM WAS TOTALLED. *AK *ML”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #859722

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Engine stalling without warning

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

6 NHTSA complaints · 1995-01 → 2001-07

“VEHICLE WILL STALL WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING, LOSS OF ALL POWER. TT”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #974882
“VEHICLE WILL STALL WITH NO WARNING AT ANY TIME. COMPUTERS CHANGED WITH SAME RESULT. DEALERS AND CHRYSLER DON'T KNOW WHAT CAUSES THIS. TT”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #958388
“VEHICLE STALLS/COMPLETELY DIES WHEN COMING TO A STOP OR DRIVING. DEALER CANNOT DETERMINE WHAT IS CAUSING THE DEFECT. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #838140

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Throttle sticking and unintended acceleration

VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL

6 NHTSA complaints · 1995-02 → 2001-09

“THROTTLE STICKS IN THE OPEN POSITION, CAUSING SUDDEN ACCELERATION”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #511155
“CONSUMER STATES THAT THE THROTTLE STICKS AND THE VEHICLE ACCELERATES WITHOUT WARNING. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #804084
“THE ENGINE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED AND THE CONSUMER HAD AN ACCIDENT. TT CONSUMER STATES SHE BACK INTO A POLE, AND WHEN SHE PUT THE VEHICLE INTO DRIVE, IT SIMPLY TOOK OFF, CONSUMER HAD NO CONTROL OF VEHICLE, CONSUMER STATES IT ONLY MOVED ABOUT 1 CAR LENGHT BEFORE SHE HIT A TRUCK,”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #975590

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Water collecting inside headlight assemblies

EXTERIOR LIGHTING

3 NHTSA complaints · 1995-06 → 2003-05

“MY 1993 PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM'S FRONT HEADLIGHTS COLLECT WATER AND EVENTUALLY BURN OUT THE HEADLAMPS. ALSO CAUSES POOR VISABILITY FOR NIGHT DRIVING. I WOULD LIKE REPLACEMENT HEADLIGHTS SINCE I FEEL I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO PAY $120.00 FOR EACH”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10020707
“THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY BECOMES A FISHBOWL. PLEASE DESCRIBE. *AK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #968059
“WATER SEEPS INTO THE HEADLIGHTS AND BLOWS OUT THE BULB AND THE WATER WILL COLLECT INSIDE AND YOU WILL GET A FISHBOWL AFFECT. PLEASE DESCRIBE. TT”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #967602

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Note: NHTSA also opened 2 defect investigation(s) on this vehicle that closed without action.

Issues on other model years

Source: NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation (ODI). Complaint data refreshed Sep 20, 2026. Investigation data refreshed Sep 1, 2026.

We display NHTSA's record with attribution; we don't editorialize on what these complaints mean for any specific vehicle.

Raw data + downloads for this vehicle →

Essential maintenance

Critical for safety and preventing major damage

Engine Oil & Filter

Every 3,000 mi

Chrysler specified 3,000 miles under the severe schedule, which is where an engine of this age belongs. Change at least once a year even if the car barely moves. Nothing in this lineup has an oil life monitor, so the interval is on you.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$120–$160

Shop

~$85–$115

DIY

~$25–$55

Full synthetic costs more than conventional. 5-quart 0W-20 + filter is the typical bill.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF+4)

Every 30,000 mi

Use Chrysler ATF+4 and nothing else. The 41TE transaxle, still often called the Ultradrive, is sensitive to fluid friction characteristics in a way most automatics are not. Drain and fill every 30,000 miles. If a shop offers to top it off with universal fluid, decline.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$330–$500

Shop

~$235–$355

DIY

~$60–$180

Some sealed transmissions have no dipstick — fill is precise and best left to a shop. Many drivers can still DIY drain-and-fill.

Timing Belt

Every 90,000 mi

Applies to the 3.0 V6 in the Voyager and Acclaim, the 2.0 in the Neon, and the turbo four in the Laser and Colt. Replace every 90,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first, and change the water pump and tensioner at the same time. The Laser's 4G63 is an interference engine, so a failed belt is engine damage rather than a tow. The 3.3 and 3.8 V6 use a chain instead and are not on this schedule.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$935–$1175

Shop

~$655–$825

DIY

Pro only

On interference engines, a snapped belt destroys valves. Worth doing on schedule. Bundle water pump + tensioner — labor is already there.

Tire Rotation

Every 7,500 mi

Rotate every 7,500 miles. Check the DOT date code on the sidewall. On a car this old, tires almost always age out before the tread runs out.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$85

Shop

~$60

DIY

Free

Often free at the shop where you bought the tires — worth asking before paying.

Brake Inspection

Every 7,500 mi

Inspect pads, rotors, hoses, and hard lines at every service. Rear drums on the Neon, Sundance, and Acclaim seize on cars that sit, and rusted steel lines are a real concern anywhere road salt is used.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$85

Shop

~$60

DIY

Free

Most shops do this free as a courtesy with any service. Don't pay separately if you can avoid it.

Brake Fluid

Every 24,000 mi

Replace every 2 years. On a twenty-five-year-old car this is what keeps the master cylinder and the ABS unit from becoming the repair bill.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$180–$200

Shop

~$125–$140

DIY

~$10–$25

DOT 3 or 4 — match the cap. Vacuum bleeders make this a one-person DIY.

Important maintenance

Keeps your vehicle running smoothly and efficiently

Spark Plugs

Every 30,000 mi

Copper plugs run 30,000 miles, platinum closer to 100,000. Replace the plug wires at the same time on anything with a distributorless coil pack. After this many years the wires break down before the plugs do.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$285–$390

Shop

~$200–$275

DIY

~$25–$100

Iridium plugs cost more but last 100k+ miles. V6/V8 access varies wildly — some are tough.

Engine Air Filter

Every 30,000 mi

Replace every 30,000 miles. Simple on every model in the lineup.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$60–$95

Shop

~$45–$70

DIY

~$15–$40

5-minute job on most cars; the airbox lid usually has clips, no tools needed.

Serpentine Belt & Tensioner

Every 60,000 mi

This is the accessory belt, not the timing belt. Replace the belt and tensioner together once either is cracked, glazed, or noisy.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$195–$235

Shop

~$135–$165

DIY

~$20–$50

DIY-friendly if you can reach the tensioner. Inspect for cracks rather than swap on a strict mileage interval.

Recommended maintenance

Extends the life of your vehicle and improves comfort

Coolant Replacement

Every 60,000 mi

Every 3 to 5 years. Most of this era uses conventional green coolant rather than a long-life formula, so do not stretch it on the assumption that modern intervals apply. The 2.0 Neon engine has a known head gasket history, and clean coolant with a correct pressure cap is the cheapest defense.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$285–$330

Shop

~$200–$235

DIY

~$25–$60

Use the manufacturer-specified coolant — wrong color/chemistry can damage the cooling system.

Battery & Charging System Test

Every 25,000 mi

Test the battery and alternator once a year. Corroded ground straps are common at this age and produce electrical faults that look far worse than they are.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$225–$390

Shop

~$160–$280

DIY

~$130–$250

Most auto-parts stores test and install batteries free with purchase. Skip the dealer markup.

Typical U.S. ranges. Actual quotes vary by shop, parts choice, and vehicle condition.

How we estimate: Dealer = OEM parts × 1.4 + labor × $165/hr. Shop = parts + labor × $115/hr. DIY = parts only.

This maintenance schedule for the 1993 Plymouth Acclaim reflects Plymouth's published service intervals. Your actual service needs may vary based on driving conditions, climate, and vehicle usage. Always consult your owner's manual for model-specific recommendations.

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