The 1996 Chrysler Cirrus has no open NHTSA recalls. Owners report 8 recurring issue clusters, led by “Front lower ball joint and control arm separation.” Chrysler's Oil Change Indicator tracks engine load and duty cycle, then messages when oil life is used up — capped at 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. The 3.6L Pentastar V6 (300, Pacifica, Town & Country, Voyager) is long-interval by design: spark plugs at 100,000 miles and no timing belt. Minivans in family duty count as 'severe service' more often than owners think — frequent short trips shorten the oil indicator's countdown, and that's the system working correctly.
No open recalls on file. NHTSA lists no unrepaired safety recalls for this year, make and model. A recall can be issued at any time, and a specific car can still have one open — check yours by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
What drivers and federal regulators have officially reported about the 1996 Chrysler Cirrus.
SUSPENSION
15 NHTSA complaints · 1998-06 → 2011-12
“WHILE DRIVING AT 70 MPH AND WITHOUT PRIOR WARNING FRONT CONTROL ARM LOWER BALL JOINT BROKE, CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO DROP TO THE GROUND”
“FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT BROKE, AND FRONT RIGHT BALL JOINT WENT OUTWARDS TO THE GROUND”
“WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 TO 30 MPH ON NORMAL ROAD CONDITIONS; THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE TIRE DISENGAGED FROM THE VEHICLE”
STEERING
5 NHTSA complaints · 1998-11 → 2002-08
“TIE ROD END BROKE AT RIGHT FRONT WHEEL, WHEEL TURNED SIDEWAYS AND CAR WAS COMPLETELY UNCONTROLLABLE”
“WHILE BACKING INTO GARAGE, RIGHT FRONT TIE ROD END BROKE”
“WHILE DRIVING AT 35 MPH CONSUMER'S LEFT SIDE OF THE VEHICLE WAS SHAKING, AND THE TIE ROD BLEW OUT”
POWER TRAIN
14 NHTSA complaints · 1996-05 → 2016-01
“A WEEK AGO WHILE DRIVING AT 40 CONSUMER FELT LIKE CAR WAS DOWN SHIFTING, RPM'S WOULD REV UP, BUT CONSUMER COULD NOT GO FASTER THAN 40 MPH”
“THE SHIFTER COULD BE TAKEN OUT OF GEAR WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION”
“CAR WOULD SHIFT OUT OF GEAR AT VARIOUS SPEEDS AND AT STOP”
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
19 NHTSA complaints · 1996-04 → 2012-03
“WHILE DRIVING AT 75MPH DOWN THE HIGHWAY A FLASH OF FIRE WAS NOTICED COMING FROM UNDER HOOD”
“WE NOTICED MAJOR OIL DRIPPING. OUR MECHANIC FOUND IT TO BE COMING FROM THE HEAD GASKET”
“VEHICLE WAS LOSING OIL BECAUSE HEAD GASKETS WERE LEAKING OIL”
SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC
23 NHTSA complaints · 1996-06 → 2004-02
“CONSUMER WAS TRAVELING ABOUT 35MPH ON A HIGHWAY STREET, AND WENT TO APPLY BRAKES AND PEDAL WENT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR”
“THE MASTER CYLINDER IS EMPTY BECAUSE THERE'S A CRACK IN IT WHICH CAUSED A COMPLETE BRAKE FAILURE”
“ABS BRAKES FAILED 3 TIMES, BRAKE PEDAL DROPPED ALMOST TO THE FLOOR AND FELT SPONGY FOR A LITTLE WHILE”
STRUCTURE
6 NHTSA complaints · 1996-07 → 1999-01
“THE TRUNK LID WILL NOT STAY UP AND HAS CAUSED SEVERAL INJURIES”
“THE TRUNK LID CAME DOWN ON PASSENGER'S HEAD WHILE LOADING TRUNK, CAUSING INJURY”
“TRUNK LID HAS TWO STOPS, THE FIRST OF WHICH FAILS TO HOLD TRUNK, RESULTING IN LACERATING ONE PERSONS HEAD”
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
9 NHTSA complaints · 1996-01 → 2008-01
“VEHICLE CONTINUALLY STALLS WHILE DRIVING”
“WHILE CROSSING AN INTERSECTION THE CONSUMER'S VEHICLE STALLED RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE INTERSECTION”
“WHEN DRIVING THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE STALLS/AND HESITATES AND CUTS OFF”
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
8 NHTSA complaints · 1995-10 → 1999-03
“SEVERAL TIMES WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKES IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC, AT A SPEED OF ABOUT 5 TO 10 MILES PER HOUR, AS I WAS PUSHING DOWN THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE ENGINE WOULD SUDDENLY INCREASE ITS SPEED”
“AFTER PUTTING THE VEHICLE INTO REVERSE, THE THROTTLE STUCK, VEHICLE LOST CONTROL, SLAMMED INTO A TREE AND INTO A DITCH, RESULTING IN INJURIES”
“THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION AND THE CONSUMER APPLIED FORCE TO THE BRAKE PEDAL AND THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED”
Issues on other model years
Source: NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation (ODI). Complaint data refreshed Sep 20, 2026. Investigation data refreshed Sep 20, 2026.
We display NHTSA's record with attribution; we don't editorialize on what these complaints mean for any specific vehicle.
Critical for safety and preventing major damage
Change oil when the indicator message appears — never beyond 10,000 miles or 12 months. Pentastar 3.6L uses 0W-20; PT Cruiser's 2.4L uses 5W-30. Short-trip city driving will trigger the indicator well before 10,000 miles.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$120–$160
Shop
~$85–$115
DIY
~$25–$55
Full synthetic costs more than conventional. 5-quart 0W-20 + filter is the typical bill.
Rotate every 8,000 miles or at every oil change. Front-heavy minivans (Pacifica, Voyager) chew front tires quickly without rotation.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$85
Shop
~$60
DIY
Free
Often free at the shop where you bought the tires — worth asking before paying.
Inspect pads, rotors, and parking brake at every oil change. Loaded minivans and the heavy 300 wear rear pads faster than expected — check both axles.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$85
Shop
~$60
DIY
Free
Most shops do this free as a courtesy with any service. Don't pay separately if you can avoid it.
PT Cruiser's 2.4L is a timing-belt engine: replace around 100,000 miles (check your manual's exact interval for the year). Do the water pump and tensioner in the same job — the labor overlaps almost entirely.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$935–$1175
Shop
~$655–$825
DIY
Pro only
On interference engines, a snapped belt destroys valves. Worth doing on schedule. Bundle water pump + tensioner — labor is already there.
Keeps your vehicle running smoothly and efficiently
Minivans (62TE six-speed): ATF+4 service every 60,000 miles under family duty. 300 with the ZF/TorqueFlite 8-speed: Chrysler lists no normal-service interval, but specialists recommend fluid service around 60,000-100,000 miles. ATF+4 or the specified 8-speed fluid only.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$330–$500
Shop
~$235–$355
DIY
~$60–$180
Some sealed transmissions have no dipstick — fill is precise and best left to a shop. Many drivers can still DIY drain-and-fill.
Pentastar 3.6L: iridium plugs at 100,000 miles. PT Cruiser 2.4L: roughly every 30,000 miles with conventional plugs — check the manual for your year.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$285–$390
Shop
~$200–$275
DIY
~$25–$100
Iridium plugs cost more but last 100k+ miles. V6/V8 access varies wildly — some are tough.
Replace every 30,000 miles. On the Pentastar it's a quick top-of-engine job; inspect sooner in dusty climates.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$60–$95
Shop
~$45–$70
DIY
~$15–$40
5-minute job on most cars; the airbox lid usually has clips, no tools needed.
Inspect from 60,000 miles and replace on evidence of cracking or glazing. A failed belt on the Pentastar takes the water pump drive with it — don't run it to destruction.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$195–$235
Shop
~$135–$165
DIY
~$20–$50
DIY-friendly if you can reach the tensioner. Inspect for cracks rather than swap on a strict mileage interval.
Extends the life of your vehicle and improves comfort
Replace every 20,000 miles — behind the glovebox on Pacifica, Voyager, and 300. Family-hauler duty (pets, gravel school lots) argues for yearly.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$60–$95
Shop
~$45–$70
DIY
~$15–$40
Usually behind the glovebox. Shops charge labor for a 10-minute job — easy DIY win.
Stellantis OAT coolant: first replacement at 10 years or 150,000 miles per the schedule; many shops suggest refreshing by 100,000 miles. Use OAT-compatible coolant only — mixing types gels the system.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$285–$330
Shop
~$200–$235
DIY
~$25–$60
Use the manufacturer-specified coolant — wrong color/chemistry can damage the cooling system.
Test annually once the battery passes 3 years old. Pacifica's stop-start system uses a pricier AGM or dual-battery setup — weak batteries throw confusing electrical faults first.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$225–$390
Shop
~$160–$280
DIY
~$130–$250
Most auto-parts stores test and install batteries free with purchase. Skip the dealer markup.
Occupant deaths in fatal crashes (FARS)
66 crashes 1990–2024
How the 66 occupant deaths break down
43
driver deaths
23
passenger deaths
66
occupant deaths
Crash years covered: 1990–2024 This model year first appears in 1996 crashes. Older models have had more years on the road to appear in these crashes, so a higher count here does not by itself mean a vehicle is less safe.
FARS counts every occupant death in a fatal crash, whatever the cause — it does not mean the vehicle was at fault or defective. Counts are not adjusted for how many of each vehicle are on the road. How to read this number
FARS 2024 data is an annual report file. NHTSA revises these records when the final file is published, so this count can change.
Every vehicle has exactly one driver seat, so driver deaths line up fairly when you compare one model to another. Occupant deaths include passengers, so a three row SUV can show a higher number than a two seat car simply because it carries more people.
Both figures are plain counts, not rates. A rate would need to know how many of each vehicle are on the road, and that registration data is not public, so we do not publish rates or scores of any kind.
IIHS publishes driver death rates using this same driver only idea, paired with a registered vehicle years denominator we do not have. Their rates and these counts answer different questions, so do not read either number here as a safety rating.
Owner-reported problem signals
Separate from the federal fatality data above: complaints owners filed with NHTSA about this year and model. These are reports of problems, unverified, and are counted here only as signals.
10
complaints mentioning a crash
5
complaints mentioning a fire
Typical U.S. ranges. Actual quotes vary by shop, parts choice, and vehicle condition.
How we estimate: Dealer = OEM parts × 1.4 + labor × $165/hr. Shop = parts + labor × $115/hr. DIY = parts only.
This maintenance schedule for the 1996 Chrysler Cirrus reflects Chrysler's published service intervals and the Oil Change Indicator System system. Your actual service needs may vary based on driving conditions, climate, and vehicle usage. Always consult your owner's manual for model-specific recommendations.