The 1999 Honda CR-V has no open NHTSA recalls. Owners report 8 recurring issue clusters, led by “Takata inflator recall repair parts unavailable.” Honda vehicles use the Maintenance Minder system — your dashboard displays a Code A (oil change) or Code B (oil change plus inspections) along with sub-codes 1-6 for additional services. Intervals adjust based on how you drive. The schedule below reflects Honda's underlying targets.
No open recalls on file. NHTSA lists no unrepaired safety recalls for this year, make and model. A recall can be issued at any time, and a specific car can still have one open — check yours by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
What drivers and federal regulators have officially reported about the 1999 Honda CR-V.
AIR BAGS
21 NHTSA complaints · 2020-04 → 2021-09
“THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 20V026000 (AIR BAGS) HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS NOT YET AVAILABLE”
“LOCAL DEALER SAYS PARTS STILL NOT AVAILABLE. CANNOT REACH HONDA CORP”
“WE ARE FRUSTRATED THAT PARTS FOR REPAIRING THIS WON'T BE AVAILABLE FOR NEARLY A YEAR”
LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES
6 NHTSA complaints · 2003-11 → 2007-07
“MY COMPLAINT IS REGARDING THE REAR DOOR LATCH, WHICH IS NOW FROZEN AND INOPERABLE”
“REAR DOOR LOCK MECHANISM ON MY CAR RUSTED TO THE POINT THAT LOCKS/ DOORS BECAME INOPERABLE AND THEY DO NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE”
“THE BACK DOOR LATCH IS NO GOOD. IT NO LONGER WORKS TO OPEN AND SHUT DOOR”
TIRES
6 NHTSA complaints · 2003-07 → 2009-09
“TREAD SEPARATION ON BRIDGESTON DUELER H/T 684 WHILE TRAVELING ON A HIGHWAY AT 55 MPH, LEFT FRONT TIRE SEPARATED FROM TREAD AND CAUSED EXTENSIVE DAMAGE TO BUMPER, FENDER, HEAD LIGHT”
“REMOVED RIGHT REAR TIRE AND DISCOVERED NEAR FAILURE TREAD SEPARATION”
“THE TIRE BLEW OUT, AND THE TREAD CAME OFF, WHICH LEFT THE CONSUMER TO DRIVE ON THE RIM”
POWER TRAIN
8 NHTSA complaints · 2000-04 → 2008-01
“THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A MECHANIC AND HE STATED THAT THE TRANSMISSION FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REBUILT”
“WHILE DRIVING AT 55 MPH TRANSMISSION WOULD NOT CHANGE TO A HIGHER GEAR. CONSUMER TOOK VEHICLE TO DEALER, AND DEALER INDICATED THAT TRANSMISSION WAS SLIPPING AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED”
“THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SLAMS INTO FIRST GEAR WHEN SLOWING TO A STOP AND NOT COMPLETELY STOPPING, BUT RATHER, ACCELERATING RAPIDLY AFTER SLOWING”
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
3 NHTSA complaints · 2002-03 → 2004-06
“WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH ACCELERATOR PEDAL STUCK. CONSUMER APPLIED THE BRAKES AND VEHICLE CONTINUED TO ACCELERATE”
“WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH ACCELERATOR PEDAL STUCK. AFTER TAPPING PEDAL TWICE IT BECAME UNSTUCK”
“I WAS DRIVING ON A DUAL HIGHWAY AT APPROX 55 MPH, I TOOK MY FOOT OFF THE ACCELERATOR COMING INTO A REDUCED SPEED AREA AND THE CAR CONTINUED TO ACCELERATE AT A FAST PACE AND HIGH SPEED”
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
21 NHTSA complaints · 2002-10 → 2023-12
“The contact stated while driving 50 MPH, the vehicle lost motive power and stalled. There was no warning light illuminated”
“THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED THAT THE ELECTRICAL CONTACT FOR THE IGNITION SWITCH FAILED”
“THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE KEY WAS INSERTED INTO THE IGNITION, THE IGNITION SWITCH SEIZED IN THE ACCESSORY POSITION. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED ON VARIOUS OCCASIONS”
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
13 NHTSA complaints · 2003-05 → 2010-07
“AT 71,655 MILES, MY 1999 HONDA CR-V HAD THE ENGINE CHECK LIGHT COME ON. TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP WHO CHECKED IT ON THE CPU AND FOUND MISFIRE CODES FOR ALL OF THE CYLINDERS. EXHAUST VALVES WERE VERY TIGHT”
“THE #4 CYLINDER HAS LOW COMPRESSION DUE TO A BURNED EXHAUST VALVE”
“#3 EXHAUST VALVE BURNED AND CHIPPED ON MY 1999 CRV. 98,000 MILES, PERFECT SERVICE HISTORY”
AIR BAGS
4 NHTSA complaints · 2003-06 → 2020-02
“THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) LIGHT TURNED ON FOR NO APPARENT REASON”
“MY 1999 HONDA CR-V HAS THE SRS LIGHT ON. THE DEALER INFORMED ME THERE IS AN INTERNAL FAILURE IN THE SRS UNIT”
“THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SRS AIR BAG LIGHT ILLUMINATED”
Issues on other model years
Source: NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation (ODI). Complaint data refreshed Sep 20, 2026. Investigation data refreshed Sep 20, 2026.
We display NHTSA's record with attribution; we don't editorialize on what these complaints mean for any specific vehicle.
Critical for safety and preventing major damage
Replace 0W-20 full-synthetic oil and filter. The Maintenance Minder triggers Code A between 7,500 and 10,000 miles depending on driving conditions.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$120–$160
Shop
~$85–$115
DIY
~$25–$55
Full synthetic costs more than conventional. 5-quart 0W-20 + filter is the typical bill.
Rotate tires front-to-back to even out wear. Honda triggers Sub-code 1 alongside every other oil change.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$85
Shop
~$60
DIY
Free
Often free at the shop where you bought the tires — worth asking before paying.
Inspect brake pads, rotors, and parking brake. Code B includes a multi-point inspection of brakes, suspension, and fluids.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$85
Shop
~$60
DIY
Free
Most shops do this free as a courtesy with any service. Don't pay separately if you can avoid it.
Replace DOT 3 brake fluid every 3 years regardless of mileage to prevent moisture absorption and corrosion of ABS components.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$180–$200
Shop
~$125–$140
DIY
~$10–$25
DOT 3 or 4 — match the cap. Vacuum bleeders make this a one-person DIY.
Keeps your vehicle running smoothly and efficiently
Replace ATF or CVT fluid. Honda CVT models (Civic, HR-V, Accord LX) use Honda HCF-2 — do not substitute. The Maintenance Minder triggers earlier under heavy stop-and-go.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$330–$500
Shop
~$235–$355
DIY
~$60–$180
Some sealed transmissions have no dipstick — fill is precise and best left to a shop. Many drivers can still DIY drain-and-fill.
AWD CR-V, Pilot, Passport, Ridgeline: replace rear diff fluid every 30,000 miles, sooner if towing.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$150–$195
Shop
~$105–$135
DIY
~$20–$50
Drain plug + fill plug — straightforward DIY. AWD vehicles have two; budget for both.
Replace the engine air filter every 30,000 miles. Honda uses a long-life cellulose element on most port-injected engines.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$60–$95
Shop
~$45–$70
DIY
~$15–$40
5-minute job on most cars; the airbox lid usually has clips, no tools needed.
Honda uses iridium-tipped plugs rated for 100,000+ miles. Replace at 105,000 miles or whenever Sub-code 6 displays.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$285–$390
Shop
~$200–$275
DIY
~$25–$100
Iridium plugs cost more but last 100k+ miles. V6/V8 access varies wildly — some are tough.
Honda Long-Life Type 2 (blue) coolant: first change at 120,000 miles, then every 60,000 miles. Do not mix with other coolant types.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$285–$330
Shop
~$200–$235
DIY
~$25–$60
Use the manufacturer-specified coolant — wrong color/chemistry can damage the cooling system.
Extends the life of your vehicle and improves comfort
Replace the cabin air filter — accessible behind the glove box on most Hondas. Honda recommends 15,000 miles in dusty conditions, longer in clean climates.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$60–$95
Shop
~$45–$70
DIY
~$15–$40
Usually behind the glovebox. Shops charge labor for a 10-minute job — easy DIY win.
Inspect and adjust valve clearances at 105,000 miles. Critical on K-series and L-series engines to prevent valve recession.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$495–$535
Shop
~$345–$375
DIY
Pro only
Mechanical-bucket valvetrains (many Honda 4-cyls, older Toyotas) need this. Hydraulic lifters don't. Shop work — feeler-gauge precision required.
Modern Honda engines (K-series, L-series, R-series, plus all Earth Dreams 1.5T and 2.0T) use a timing chain designed to last the life of the engine. No scheduled replacement.
Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges
Dealer
~$85
Shop
~$60
DIY
Pro only
Timing chains are normally lifetime. Listen for rattle on cold start — that's the actionable signal. Replacement is major work, quote separately.
Occupant deaths in fatal crashes (FARS)
193 crashes 1990–2024
How the 193 occupant deaths break down
148
driver deaths
45
passenger deaths
193
occupant deaths
Crash years covered: 1990–2024 This model year first appears in 1999 crashes. Older models have had more years on the road to appear in these crashes, so a higher count here does not by itself mean a vehicle is less safe.
FARS counts every occupant death in a fatal crash, whatever the cause — it does not mean the vehicle was at fault or defective. Counts are not adjusted for how many of each vehicle are on the road. How to read this number
FARS 2024 data is an annual report file. NHTSA revises these records when the final file is published, so this count can change.
Every vehicle has exactly one driver seat, so driver deaths line up fairly when you compare one model to another. Occupant deaths include passengers, so a three row SUV can show a higher number than a two seat car simply because it carries more people.
Both figures are plain counts, not rates. A rate would need to know how many of each vehicle are on the road, and that registration data is not public, so we do not publish rates or scores of any kind.
IIHS publishes driver death rates using this same driver only idea, paired with a registered vehicle years denominator we do not have. Their rates and these counts answer different questions, so do not read either number here as a safety rating.
Owner-reported problem signals
Separate from the federal fatality data above: complaints owners filed with NHTSA about this year and model. These are reports of problems, unverified, and are counted here only as signals.
10
complaints mentioning a crash
0
complaints mentioning a fire
Typical U.S. ranges. Actual quotes vary by shop, parts choice, and vehicle condition.
How we estimate: Dealer = OEM parts × 1.4 + labor × $165/hr. Shop = parts + labor × $115/hr. DIY = parts only.
This maintenance schedule for the 1999 Honda CR-V reflects Honda's published service intervals and the Maintenance Minder system. Your actual service needs may vary based on driving conditions, climate, and vehicle usage. Always consult your owner's manual for model-specific recommendations.