1998 Plymouth Breeze Recalls, Problems & Maintenance

The 1998 Plymouth Breeze has no open NHTSA recalls. Owners report 6 recurring issue clusters, led by “Head gasket oil leak.” Plymouth ended in 2001, and everything with the badge is a Chrysler or Dodge underneath. The Voyager is a Caravan, the Neon is a Dodge Neon, the Laser is an Eagle Talon and a Mitsubishi Eclipse. Parts are shared and easy to find. Two things decide whether one of these lasts. First, the four-speed automatic in the minivans and Neons requires Chrysler ATF+4 fluid specifically. Generic Dexron will make it shudder and then fail, and this is the most common way these transmissions die. Second, several engines here use a rubber timing belt, including the 3.0 liter Mitsubishi V6 in the minivans, the 2.0 in the Neon, and the turbocharged four in the Laser. On the Laser's engine a snapped belt bends valves. If you cannot document the last belt, treat it as due.

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No open recalls on file. NHTSA lists no unrepaired safety recalls for this year, make and model. A recall can be issued at any time, and a specific car can still have one open — check yours by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.

Known issues & problems for this vehicle

What drivers and federal regulators have officially reported about the 1998 Plymouth Breeze.

Reported to NHTSA

Head gasket oil leak

ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING

56 NHTSA complaints · 1999-10 → 2013-04

“HEADGASKET AND CAM SEAL FAILURE ON MY 1998 PLYMOUTH BREEZE WHICH CAUSED OIL LEAK AND LED TO MY HAVING TO REPLACE BOTH TO STOP OIL LEAK”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10073052
“DT*: THE CONTACT STATED AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF OIL WAS NOTICED ON THE GARAGE FLOOR”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10153611
“THE VEHICLE LEAKED OIL. CHRYSLER SENT OUT A FIVE PAGE TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ON SEPTEMBER 17,1999”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10096915

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Shifter and park interlock failure

POWER TRAIN

9 NHTSA complaints · 1999-08 → 2010-06

“TWO WEEKS AFTER RECALL REPAIRS WERE PERFORMED FOR THE FLOOR SHIFT IGNITION THE PART FAILED AGAIN”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10099315
“THE VEHICLE'S PARK INTERLOCK SYSTEM FAILED PRIOR TO THE CONSUMER RECEIVING THE RECALL NOTICE”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10092631
“TRANSMISSION CAN BE TAKEN OUT OF PARK WITHOUT USING THE KEY”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #710393

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Brake pedal to floor and brake line failure

SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC

5 NHTSA complaints · 2001-05 → 2006-08

“WHILE DRIVING STEPPED ON BRAKE PEDAL TO STOP, BRAKES DID NOT RESPOND, AND BRAKE PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOORBOARD”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #888067
“BRAKE LINE ON FRONT WHEEL BURST,LOST MOST BRAKING ABILITY,LUCKLY THERE WAS NOT AN ACCIDENT”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10026085
“WHEN APPLYING BRAKES PEDALGOES ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #8006267

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Air bags not deploying in frontal collision

AIR BAGS

6 NHTSA complaints · 2000-02 → 2010-07

“FRONT COLLISION AT 35-40 MPH, NEITHER AIR BAG DEPLOYED”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10005905
“FRONT COLLISION AT 50 MPH, NEITHER AIRBAG DEPLOYED”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #8008040
“WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #858658

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Vehicle fire with smoke from door panel or engine bay

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

8 NHTSA complaints · 2000-02 → 2017-11

“VEHICLE WAS TURNED ON AND CONSUMER NOTICED SMOKE COMING FROM DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #856826
“THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING 1 MPH WHEN THE VEHICLE STARTED TO SMOKE FROM THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR PANEL BEFORE CATCHING FIRE”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10445851
“WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH ON NORMAL ROAD CONDITIONS, THE CONTACT HEARD A LOUD NOISE COMING FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10252081

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Sudden acceleration without accelerator input

VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL

5 NHTSA complaints · 1998-06 → 2004-09

“AFTER STARTING VEHICLE AND SHIFTING INTO DRIVE, VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED WITH FOOT ON BRAKE”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #824486
“STARTED CAR AND WITH BRAKE PRESSED DOWN, SHIFTED INTO REVERSE WITH NO PRESSURE ON THE ACCELERATOR”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #720769
“ON 9/21/04 I WAS STOPPED FOR A TRAFFIC LIGHT WAITING TO TURN LEFT”
— Owner report, NHTSA ODI #10093173

Read all complaints on NHTSA →

Note: NHTSA also opened 2 defect investigation(s) on this vehicle that closed without action.

Source: NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation (ODI). Complaint data refreshed Sep 20, 2026. Investigation data refreshed Sep 1, 2026.

We display NHTSA's record with attribution; we don't editorialize on what these complaints mean for any specific vehicle.

Raw data + downloads for this vehicle →

Essential maintenance

Critical for safety and preventing major damage

Engine Oil & Filter

Every 3,000 mi

Chrysler specified 3,000 miles under the severe schedule, which is where an engine of this age belongs. Change at least once a year even if the car barely moves. Nothing in this lineup has an oil life monitor, so the interval is on you.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$120–$160

Shop

~$85–$115

DIY

~$25–$55

Full synthetic costs more than conventional. 5-quart 0W-20 + filter is the typical bill.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF+4)

Every 30,000 mi

Use Chrysler ATF+4 and nothing else. The 41TE transaxle, still often called the Ultradrive, is sensitive to fluid friction characteristics in a way most automatics are not. Drain and fill every 30,000 miles. If a shop offers to top it off with universal fluid, decline.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$330–$500

Shop

~$235–$355

DIY

~$60–$180

Some sealed transmissions have no dipstick — fill is precise and best left to a shop. Many drivers can still DIY drain-and-fill.

Timing Belt

Every 90,000 mi

Applies to the 3.0 V6 in the Voyager and Acclaim, the 2.0 in the Neon, and the turbo four in the Laser and Colt. Replace every 90,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first, and change the water pump and tensioner at the same time. The Laser's 4G63 is an interference engine, so a failed belt is engine damage rather than a tow. The 3.3 and 3.8 V6 use a chain instead and are not on this schedule.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$935–$1175

Shop

~$655–$825

DIY

Pro only

On interference engines, a snapped belt destroys valves. Worth doing on schedule. Bundle water pump + tensioner — labor is already there.

Tire Rotation

Every 7,500 mi

Rotate every 7,500 miles. Check the DOT date code on the sidewall. On a car this old, tires almost always age out before the tread runs out.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$85

Shop

~$60

DIY

Free

Often free at the shop where you bought the tires — worth asking before paying.

Brake Inspection

Every 7,500 mi

Inspect pads, rotors, hoses, and hard lines at every service. Rear drums on the Neon, Sundance, and Acclaim seize on cars that sit, and rusted steel lines are a real concern anywhere road salt is used.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$85

Shop

~$60

DIY

Free

Most shops do this free as a courtesy with any service. Don't pay separately if you can avoid it.

Brake Fluid

Every 24,000 mi

Replace every 2 years. On a twenty-five-year-old car this is what keeps the master cylinder and the ABS unit from becoming the repair bill.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$180–$200

Shop

~$125–$140

DIY

~$10–$25

DOT 3 or 4 — match the cap. Vacuum bleeders make this a one-person DIY.

Important maintenance

Keeps your vehicle running smoothly and efficiently

Spark Plugs

Every 30,000 mi

Copper plugs run 30,000 miles, platinum closer to 100,000. Replace the plug wires at the same time on anything with a distributorless coil pack. After this many years the wires break down before the plugs do.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$285–$390

Shop

~$200–$275

DIY

~$25–$100

Iridium plugs cost more but last 100k+ miles. V6/V8 access varies wildly — some are tough.

Engine Air Filter

Every 30,000 mi

Replace every 30,000 miles. Simple on every model in the lineup.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$60–$95

Shop

~$45–$70

DIY

~$15–$40

5-minute job on most cars; the airbox lid usually has clips, no tools needed.

Serpentine Belt & Tensioner

Every 60,000 mi

This is the accessory belt, not the timing belt. Replace the belt and tensioner together once either is cracked, glazed, or noisy.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$195–$235

Shop

~$135–$165

DIY

~$20–$50

DIY-friendly if you can reach the tensioner. Inspect for cracks rather than swap on a strict mileage interval.

Recommended maintenance

Extends the life of your vehicle and improves comfort

Coolant Replacement

Every 60,000 mi

Every 3 to 5 years. Most of this era uses conventional green coolant rather than a long-life formula, so do not stretch it on the assumption that modern intervals apply. The 2.0 Neon engine has a known head gasket history, and clean coolant with a correct pressure cap is the cheapest defense.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$285–$330

Shop

~$200–$235

DIY

~$25–$60

Use the manufacturer-specified coolant — wrong color/chemistry can damage the cooling system.

Battery & Charging System Test

Every 25,000 mi

Test the battery and alternator once a year. Corroded ground straps are common at this age and produce electrical faults that look far worse than they are.

Estimated cost — typical U.S. ranges

Dealer

~$225–$390

Shop

~$160–$280

DIY

~$130–$250

Most auto-parts stores test and install batteries free with purchase. Skip the dealer markup.

Typical U.S. ranges. Actual quotes vary by shop, parts choice, and vehicle condition.

How we estimate: Dealer = OEM parts × 1.4 + labor × $165/hr. Shop = parts + labor × $115/hr. DIY = parts only.

This maintenance schedule for the 1998 Plymouth Breeze reflects Plymouth's published service intervals. Your actual service needs may vary based on driving conditions, climate, and vehicle usage. Always consult your owner's manual for model-specific recommendations.